LODGED between a coin-op laundry and an auto detailing shop, the Lexington Square Cafe, with its handsome brick facade, has earned a reputation as a yuppie oasis with a thriving bar scene. What I witnessed on recent weekend nights, however, was fairly tame, with kids in lacrosse and baseball uniforms wolfing down burgers and silver-haired patrons in cashmere sweaters picking delicately through mesclun salads.
Indeed, the menu, which I could write in my sleep, has something for everyone: fried calamari, crab cakes, a salad with the requisite goat cheese and roasted beets, grilled steak seared tuna and, naturally, a free-range chicken. To be fair, the food showed some inventiveness and was more often appealing than not.
A caveat: After my first visit with my family, marked by charred croutons, rubbery ravioli and sluggish service, it took some serious coaxing to get anyone to go back. To my surprise, I had memorable meals and top-notch service the second and third times around.
On entering the cafe, diners face a marble-topped demi-lune that holds a display of showy cakes, a side business of the restaurant. On one, a six-inch golfer tried to work its way out of a graham cracker sand trap. The multilevel cafe features soaring ceilings and an 1980's veneer of saturated colors, alabaster fixtures and mahogany-toned trim. A pretty mural depicting Mount Kisco in the horse and buggy era fills the end of the main dining room, and a wall of paned glass windows effectively isolates the expansive bar. The whole is anchored by a sweeping central staircase worthy of a cruise ship.
For starters, a creamy risotto made with artichoke hearts, preserved lemons, prosciutto and grilled shrimp was my favorite thing on the menu. I'd also go back for the spring vegetable terrine laced with a balsamic syrup. A mild corn chowder with potatoes and celery was just right for children. Semolina-crusted calamari served with a lemon-caper aioli had an interesting nutty texture; they quickly disappeared. In the Asian department, the spicy shrimp dumplings were noteworthy, as were morsels of lobster wrapped in rice paper nestled alongside a lively little salad. Tangy pork spareribs stacked like Lincoln Logs were also popular with the children.
Sticky-spicy rock shrimp were lost in their batter. A salad with bland goat cheese came with a blackened crouton, and the croutons that dotted the lightweight Caesar salad were stale.
The simpler entrees were among the best. These included a roasted free-range chicken perfumed with rosemary, a peppery filet mignon on a savory bed of leeks and onions and rosy rounds of yellow fin tuna served with a mound of perfectly sautéed spinach and a crackly risotto cake.
A plate of tough ricotta ravioli served with a pedestrian tomato sauce, carmelized onions, sautéed spinach, white beans and Parmigiano-Reggiano showed the kitchen at its least inspired. Halibut braised in green Thai curry delivered a lot of heat without a lot of flavor. The hot and sour glazed duck breast was cloyingly sweet.
The wine list has a limited but well-chosen array of fairly priced wines, with a tilt toward California. I liked the crisp 1999 Cold Creek chardonnay from Ste. Michelle ($48), and the 1999 Patz & Hall Alder Springs Vineyard pinot noir, with its notes of Bing cherry.
Desserts earned mixed reviews. The very chocolatey gooey chocolate cake put my children in a state of bliss. The raspberry and white chocolate bavarian looked like something from Carvel, but it had a soothing effect. My husband liked the unfussy crème brûlée, with its dense custard and hit of pure vanilla.
Lexington Square Cafe
510 Lexington Avenue,
Mount Kisco
(914) 244-3663
GOOD
Atmosphere -- Casual dining in a lofty central room or various adjunct dining areas. On weeknights, it can be crowded and noisy. Lunch is more sedate, a mix of business and pleasure.
Service -- Friendly and mostly efficient.
Recommended dishes -- Lobster rolls, shrimp dumplings, semolina-crusted calamari, artichoke risotto, vegetable terrine, spice-crusted yellowfin tuna, roasted chicken, peppered filet mignon, gooey chocolate cake, raspberry and white chocolate bavarian, strawberry and orange shortcake, crème brûlée.
Prices -- At both lunch and dinner, from the same menu: Starters, sandwiches and salads: $8 to $18; entrees: $18 to $28; desserts: $5 to $7.
Hours -- Mondays through Thursdays, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sundays, brunch, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; food service at the bar only, 3 to 5 p.m.; dinner, 5 to 9 p.m.
Credit cards -- All major.
Wheelchair access -- None.
The Ratings -- Excellent. Very good. Good. Satisfactory. Poor. Ratings reflect the reviewer's reaction primarily to food, with ambience and service taken into consideration. Menu listings and prices are subject to change.
