PERCHED on a spit of land at Tarrytown's waterfront, Sunset Cove commands a prime view of the Hudson River. Although the view is uplifting any hour, the restaurant's name suggests when it's best.
Every evening, especially in clear weather, the sun's descent behind the Palisades provides diners with an ever-new, transcendent display. At dusk the lights of the Tappan Zee Bridge cast a magical glow on the river, as running lights on barges slip silently past. The view is a hard act to follow, and few kitchens, including Sunset Cove, can live up to this kind of challenge. But interesting Near East touches added tasty variety to a number of dishes, particularly to entrees.
Bronzed and moist, Moroccan chicken with superb creamy polenta was unusual and exceptionally fine with a mix of baby spinach, feta and ground nuts. Fresh grouper, perfectly cooked and a joy on its own, was further enhanced by a mound of large-grain Israeli couscous and a topping of macadamia nuts and mango, a surprising embellishment that worked. A brush of maple and a scattering of walnuts enlivened a piece of salmon.
A rack of lamb special came coated with Gorgonzola, a pleasing combination of sweet meat and tangy cheese, but washed-out vegetables and dry sweet potato cake brought the dish down. Although the barbecue sampler would be a perfect choice for waterside dining, cloyingly sweet and heavily applied sauce ruined what might have been decent enough ribs and shrimp. Ask for sauce to be served separately, whenever possible.
Sauce also caused the fall of two pasta dishes. Soupy garlic cream sauce flooded a bowl of cavatelli, a special strewn with bits of lobster, bay scallops and spinach. And penne suffered under tomato and overly thickened, sticky vodka sauce.
Appetizers and items from the raw bar were fine for snacking or beginning a meal. Cool, fresh clams on the half shell came with horseradish as well as with cocktail sauce, so diners can add heat as they wish. The clams were well priced at $13 a dozen.
Asian pear salad made a good choice from this kitchen that's sometimes short on refinement. The composition centered around a huge piece of goat cheese, pressed with pecans and topped with slices of pear. Limp slaw did nothing for seared tuna, which needs the zest of some condiment to bring up its flavor.
Chopped bok choy and radicchio tossed with lime dressing and sweet cashews made an interesting bed for lightly breaded calamari. And a big salad of watercress and romaine lettuce with crumbled Gorgonzola and walnuts tasted new and fresh under an unusual vinaigrette of balsamico and dried cranberry.
Spicy rémoulade added an unmistakably hot note to crab cake, which had little flavor on its own; and the round of baked Brie was much too heavy for an appetizer, but warmed, it would have made a good spread to have with drinks.
Whipped cream -- and lots of it -- frothed most desserts. Served in huge stemmed goblets, both strawberry short cake, based on a classic crumbly biscuit piled high with sliced strawberries, and Sunset Sundae, based on a large, soft brownie, came loaded with whipped cream and with ice cream. Good pear tart brought slices of the fruit on puff pastry, ice cream on the side. Those with a taste for overly rich desserts might enjoy chocolate pudding peanut butter pie or smooth, dense chocolate cheesecake.
A pastel-colored cocktail, a glass of beer or a glass of wine from a standard list, a large or small selection from a varied menu, and a splendid view bring most people here to while away a lovely summer night and to enjoy the cool breezes that always seem to be blowing off the river.
Sunset Cove
238 Green Street, at the Washington Irving Boat Club, Tarrytown.
(914)366-7889.
GOOD
ATMOSPHERE -- Magnificent view through the glass wall of the unprepossessing dining room and from the large breezy patio on the edge of the Hudson River. Adjoining but separately owned boat club bar. Live jazz on Friday nights. Valet parking.
RECOMMENDED DISHES -- Crackling calamari, clams on the half shell, Asian pear salad, grouper with Israeli couscous, Moroccan chicken with creamy polenta, rack of lamb with Gorgonzola, grilled salmon, Sunset sundae, strawberry short cake, pear tart
PRICES -- Lunch, main dishes, $7 to $12. Dinner, main dishes, $14 to $25. Buffet brunch, $20.
CREDIT CARDS -- Major cards accepted.
HOURS -- Lunch, Mondays through Saturdays, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner, daily, 5 to 11 p.m.. Brunch, Sundays, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
RESERVATIONS -- Accepted.
WHEELCHAIR -- access Ramp.
THE RATINGS -- Excellent. Very good. Good. Satisfactory. Poor.
Ratings reflect the reviewer's reaction primarily to food, with ambience and service taken into consideration. Menu listings and prices are subject to change.
